Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Day 3 - Shivalaya - Deurali via Thodung

Definitely an UP day. We started at about 1700m then climbed to Thodung at 3100m before descending to Durelli (2710m) for the night. We took the very untravelled back route up to Thodung (note - don't do this!) and met almost no one and managed to get lost. At long last, as the altitude and continuous climbing were starting to get too much, we happily stumbled onto the deserted looking cheese factory, where we eventually found the cheese maker who treated us to some buttermilk and some wonderful yak cheese.

When I first did the trek Thodung was a "must stop" place. Besides a cheese factory there was an amazing guesthouse run by a Sherpa couple. They grew their own vegetables and baked fantastic bread which they served along with fresh jam. The dinners were fantastic with the fresh veggies simmered in butter with cheese on top. It was heavenly. Unfortunately the guest house is no longer open and all that remains is the cheese factory. We did however manage to pick up a kilo of very fresh cheese for 375 Rs from the gentleman that tends to factory. Sara, the cheese lover (she is after all 1/4 Swiss), was thrilled. (The two pictures are before and now shots of the guest house).

Deurali was the second of the five passes that we needed to transit on our way to the Everest valley, though of course we approached it from an unorthodox position (from above). Not long after we arrived the heavens opened and the rain and hail poured down. Luckily we were able to keep dry, although the laundry we had just done did not dry very well! Prices here are up a bit. The guesthouse was 100Rps, but dahl was 150 , as was Sherpa stew.

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