Sunday, October 5, 2008

Almost there...

Only another day and a bit until we are off...the test packing has begun. We will of course arrive right in the middle of the Hindu festival of Dashain. I would guess that our first day or two in Kathmandu will actually be quite subdued with most stores and even many restaurants closed.

Since I went to Nepal also in October in 1983 it should not be surprising that I experienced Dashain on that trip as well. I still have quite vivid memories of the aftermaths of the animal sacrifices (with blood sprayed everywhere for good luck). I remember seeing headless water buffalo riding in the back of rickshaws.

Here is one picture of a headless water buffalo being wheeled away on a cart in Durbar Square.

There was also another piece of good news today. I have been watching the weather forecasts quite closely waiting to see the end of the monsoon. While you can trek during the monsoon, it is I think infinitely nicer to trek "in the dry". Luckily the latest forecast has the monsoon ending around the 14th, so just about exactly when we expect to hit the trail. Now that would be timing.

In 1983 we had excellent weather. I t only rained one night. There were clouds some days, but by the time we hit Nuntala there was not a cloud in the sky and we could see Everest in the distance very clearly. And so it would stay. For the entire time that we could see Everest, there was never a cloud in the sky anywhere near it. Of course that was wonderful, as there are folks that make it all the way to Kala Pattar to not even see Everest, or just to glimpse short views during momentary breaks in the clouds.

The only downside of that splendid weather was that photography was a bit "simple". You took a picture and well, that was about it. Other than some lighting changes, the view remained the same. At that time a few clouds would have actually been nice, helping to mix up the view a bit and providing a bit of "variety". It's not that I am complaining though. The panoramas were and no doubt still are breathtaking, clouds or no clouds.

This picture is of the Thodung Cheese factory, a long day from Jiri (or two shorter ones) at the start/end of the trail. It is where I spent my 25 birthday, so I am looking forward to a return visit early on the trek...and maybe on the way back too. This place was a real treat with their yak cheese. In my diary I wrote "Supper was an absolute feast! Vegetables with butter and yak cheese, french fries, tea, milk (superb tasting milk). Could barely move after dinner. Such a welcome change to get really well prepared food." "Breakfast was another feast. Muesli, lots of milk, bread (whole wheat and heavy) with delicious butter and jam." Of course the question is ..."What will it be like 25 years on?"

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