Day 26: Surke to Jubing

What a change in 2 days - from parka to shorts, from no vegetation to lush vegetation, and fruit galore (Sara is devouring oranges whenever we can get them, even if it from some passing porter on his way up with a full basket for Namche).

(Photo #1 is looking back towards Namche, with Lukla on the right. Photo #2 is a closer shot of Lukla and the airport runway)

Today's trek started with a good 1 1/2 hour climb out of Surke and then a steady climb up to Paiya and then around the bend to the pass at about 3,100. On the way there are some good views back at Lukla and the incoming planes. Then a descent down through Karte, Bupsa (our lunch stop), and down to the river. Then back up through Khari-Khola, to the next pass, and then down to Jubing. In total probably at least 750m up, 1350m down and a good 10km of walking) In Jubing we stayed at the "quaint" Green Bamboo guesthouse that was very old style. The whole place could have blown over in a decent wind (I think there are better places to stay at).

We are going a bit slower than I went last time at this stage of the trek. Back then, being a bit younger we pushed it a bit more to see what we could do at the low altitudes (with so much more oxygen). We actually walked from Chumoa (near Monjo) to Jubing in one 12 hour day. And that was not on the normal trail, it was on a little used trail that ran by the river, but had more ups and downs than any other trail we ever saw.

Anyway, at night we are sleeping in a "rustic" old building with creaking stairs, low beams, dusty plank floors and shaky tables, set in front of a wonderful old bamboo grove - magic. Then after we are fast asleep a sudden burst of loud music startles us awake (it's about 11pm). Before I can figure out what the noise is, a voice starts chattering away at high volume - ah ha - a cell phone ring tone loud enough to be heard in Nuntale! What follows is more loud chattering, dropped calls, more ring tones....this in a place where we at least are asleep at 7. Finally the cell phone chatter ends and is replaced by a dull pounding bass from music being played quite some distance away, but obviously being played loudly...this goes on all night. (Photo #3: Near Paiya)

Isn't technology wonderful. In the afternoon 6 cows go one way down the street, followed in the opposite direction by a pony, followed not long after by a herd of 7 or 8 goats being brought back to town for the evening by their owner ... and they promptly start wandering through the dining room of the house, and that is to say nothing about the chickens running in and out of every space they can find. But then technology puts this natural "silence" in its place. Now it must play background to the electricity fueled noise that we all are familiar with. (Photo #4: Outside the Green Bamboo - Jubing)